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     destinations    |   argentina   |    hidden gems  |  Cataratas de Iguazu (Iguazu Falls)  


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

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   In 1541 the 2nd Governor for the Rio de la Plata ( Alvar Nuñez Cabeza de Vaca ) commenced an incredible voyage starting out from Santa Catarina on the Atlantic Coast, to Asuncion del Paraguay.

During this torturous adventure he found the mighty cataracts he named Santa Maria Falls, which today are known by their indigenous name 'iguazu' meaning Mighty Waters.

In 1984, Catartas de Iguazu was declared as a World Heritage National Park, to be protected & preserved for mankind into the future.

The area surrounding Cataratas de Iguazu (Iguazu Falls) is one huge rainforest. It has formed over thousands of years because of the high rainfall & humidity, year round features of the local micro-climate.

The winds off the Atlantic Ocean draw in moisture & form clouds that deposit an average of 2000mm of rain. Humidity averages 75 - 85% & the temperatures rarely fluctuate below 20C, although there are days during winter that are unusually chilly.

The rainforest is home to more than 2000 species of vascular plants, 400 species of birds, 80 species of mammals & innumerable insects, butterflies & spiders, some of whom are not yet fully identified.

Three distinct levels make up the rainforest : ground plants & ferns, a middle canopy of aspiring trees & vines seeking the light from the upper canopy which is formed by mature trees like the rosewood which towers to 40 metres tall & blots out the light & sun to those trees below. The soil is a deep amber red mix of decomposed organic matter & iron oxide based earth.

This rich diversity of plant life & trees provides food & shelter for mammals, birds, frogs & toads, reptiles & insects. The main grouping of predators come from the cat family.

 



The largest of these is the Jaguar - a silent, deadly, cunning & agile stalker, as adept on land as it is in the water. The Jaguar is very powerful & like its cousin in Africa, the Leopard, it owns the night, equally, is seen during the day close to the river. It's favourite prey is the Tapir, related to the pig but much larger. Tapirs grow to 300kgs & inhabit the densest areas of forest. As well, there are Pumas, Ocelot, Jaguarete & Spotted cats in the Iguazu National Park.


Of the mammals you are likely to encounter, the most common is the Coatimundi. Looking somewhat of a cross between an Ant-Eater & a large possum, Coatimundi possess a long flexible tapered snout & a squat fat body enhanced by a bushy long ring marked tail. They travel in family groups of up to thirty, scurrying in the underbrush seeking out insects & berries. Coatimundi are very frequently seen on the catwalks & walking trails above the falls.

Birds live at all levels of the forest . From the ground dwelling Tinamou which resemble partridges, to many of the 37 different species of Toucan, hummingbirds, woodpeckers & many exotic parrots. The forest is alive with bird calls from dawn till dusk.


Nowhere else is the power & sheer beauty of cascading water in a true jungle setting able to be bettered, than the wonders to be witnessed at Cataratas de Iguazu (Iguazu Falls). This astonishing display of nature spans the Iguazu River & stretches around two curved valleys into a horseshoe canyon where the main stream of the Rio Iguazu flows. This is 'Garganta del Diablo' - 'the Devils Throat ' & the point that forms the International border between Argentina & Brasil.

The 270 plus cataracts that make up Iguazu Falls stretch 3 kms wide & are up to 90metres high, making them wider than Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe & higher than Niagara. They rightfully claim the world record for the highest volume of water to flow over any waterfalls - in flood, 31million litres a second gushes downward. Quite simply put, Iguazu Falls are the most spectacular waterfalls on this planet. They offer many, many different viewing perspectives.

Access by way of getting up close is best done on the Argentine side. For starters, be prepared to get wet & accordingly, it is recommended you pick up a thin plastic poncho from the Iguazu Jungle Explorer Company, who's offices are located directly adjacent to & directly behind the central Visitors Information buildings in the green parkland, at the commencement of the walking trails.

Your choices include the upper level catwalks where you may wander for approximately 1.8kms along the edge of the Mbygua, Bossetti & Adan y Eva falls. These sturdy catwalks have been carefully covered with grilled metal floors to provide the best of grip when walking. They have solid metal handrails & sides & are build with maximum safety in mind.

Then, you may take in the falls from the lower level concrete pathways which are accessible by stairway from the start point or half way point of the upper level catwalks. For this river level, the sheer size, width & especially the volume of water cascading over the falls is daunting & most always, the valley is shrouded in a fine, wet mist. Every step marks yet another Kodak moment, so whatever you do, don't get caught short without sufficient film.
Yet another viewing opportunity is from the River itself.

The Jungle Explorer Company will take you by four wheel drive truck on a 5 km track through the 'selva', providing commentary on the flora & fauna, butterfly, insect, bird & animal life enroute. Velvet & Howler monkeys abound in the trees & are frequently to be seen scampering above in the canopy of the rainforest. The colours of the many butterfly & moth species is captivating & keep a sharp eye peeled for Puma & Jaguar.

When you arrive at a point where the road terminates at Puerto Macuco, you will descend down a concrete pathway & steps to the river level. Here, climb aboard the 24 passenger, rubber inflatable launch which is powered by two mighty outboard motors, for a spectacular high speed ride up the river through three wild rapids & up to the face of both the 'San Martin' & the 'Tres Mosqueteros' falls. You definitely require the plastic water shield poncho that the Jungle Explorer Company offer for sale, before embarking -believe us when we say it is not given to you, for show.

After two or sometimes three passes close to these deluging cataracts, you will alight from the vessel at the termination point of the lower walking trail. From here, you can take the shuttle vessel, three minutes ride across the river to San Martin Island. This mid-river island splits the 'San Martin' falls from the' Tres Mosqueteros' falls. It is a short but steep climb up the concrete stairway to the walking trails that are clearly defined & criss-cross the island, but it is worth every breath as here, you can get out onto the parapet that looks directly down into the depths of San Martin falls. This view is awesome.

After the spine tingling thrill of the high speed power vessel, the Jungle Explorer Company offers a more leisurely river based excursion, They first take you some 8 kms upstream above the Iguazu Falls providing a commentary on the jungle flaura & fauna, birds, insects & animals. You then climb aboard a rubber inflatable raft with seating for ten persons, plus the pilot, who has two large oars with which he delicately maneuvers the vessel as it goes with the current close to the left hand banks of the river.

The ever present clicking of cicadas, the hum of bees & the shrill calls of the forest birds is so soothing & mingled with the gurgle of the river as you drift. There are many islands in the river above the falls & it is highly likely you'll see turtles, lizards & often, crocodiles sunning themselves on the sandy beaches.

Your expert oarsman will steer the craft to a landing where you are met & taken to the departure point for an excursion to the Devils Throat. Access to the 'Devils Throat' is by way of a river transfer to a concrete raised walkway from which a 5 minute stroll takes you onto the viewing deck, located at the absolute limit of where the river plunges over 90 metres into the abyss in a veil of white mist.

The Brasil side of the Falls provide two differing perspectives. You get to see the Brasil falls, plus the panorama of the entire Argentine side laid out before you which is difficult when you are on the Argentine side itself.

Here too, whilst you cannot get as close, nor to the lower river level as the walkways are far less expansive than on the Argentine side, you can opt to take a helicopter excursion high above the chasms & take in the birds eye perspective.

To access the Brasil side from Argentina, you will need to actually exit the National Park by remis car or shuttle, crossing the International border bridge & present your passport to Brasilian Immigration Authorities ( requiring a current Brasilian tourist visa) & proceed to the Visitors Center, located in close proximity to the Hotel Tropical Das Cataratas.

At Iguazu Falls there is plenty to occupy the visitor for three full days. Many of the excursions are located away from the river & its walking or water based activities. We recommend a visit to the Bird sanctuary close to Puerto Iguazu, located some 18kms from the entrance to the National Park. Here, animals & more especially exotic birds that have been either injured or confiscated by Customs at the International borders & airport of Argentina, are sent to recuperate prior to re-releasing them back into the forest habitat. You will have the opportunity to view up close, rare raptors ( owls & eagles ) exotic parrots & toucans, parakeets & forest floor dwellers.

Also in Puerto Iguazu is the monument where the three International borders of Paraguay, Argentina & Brasil come together at the apex of the Parana & Iguazu Rivers.

On the Brasilian side, one of the favoured excursions is to the world's largest hydro electric dam. Itaipu dam lays claim to having been poured with sufficient concrete to pave a four lane highway from Barcelona to Moscow & is a mighty example of construction on the grandest of scales.

For those thinking of traveling south from the Argentine border by road either by rental vehicle or on a guided excursion, some five hours drive on an excellent dual carriage highway will have you at San Ignacio, the sight of the ancient Jesuit mission of the same name.

San Ignacio is the site of the major motion picture starring Robert de Niro & Jeremy Irons titled 'The Mission'.

There were a number of these Jesuit missions established in the 1500's when the first missionaries came to South America & attempted to convert the native Indians to Christianity. The ruins remain today mostly intact & the portico is a tribute to the craft of ancient stone masons who carved the ornate mural patterns from the huge blocks of stone that go to make up this edifice.

A two day, one night excursion to San Ignacio is available from Puerto Iguazu & combines visits to semi-precious stone quarries & their onsite warehouses where you may purchase turquoise & blue Lapislazuli along with many other variations of coloured quartz artifacts & jewelery.

The Rio Iguazu rises in the state of Parana, flowing some 600kms westward. It acquires a number of other tributaries who contribute their input to the Rio Iguazu prior to it plunging over the escarpment which we know as either Cataratas de Iguazu (Iguazu Falls) or Foz do Iguassu. Some 6 kms down river below the falls, the Rio Iguazu flows into the Rio Parana, which forms the international border of the three countries, Argentina, Brasil & Paraguay at that point.
The Rio Parana then flows on for 1520 kms before merging into the Rio de la Plata, the huge waterway, dividing Argentina from Uruguay & on which the Argentine capital city of Buenos Aires & the Uruguayan capital city of Montevideo are built.

No adventure to Argentina or Brasil is complete without spending at least two nights & three days exploring the mysteries of the mighty Iguazu Falls & without a doubt, they rate at the very pinnacle on the list of the "Eight Natural Wonders of the World".

Hotel accommodation in & surrounding Cataratas de Iguazu (Iguazu Falls) on the Argentine side or Foz do Iguassu on the Brasilian side is plentiful, but is essential to be pre-booked given the number of International visitors the falls themselves attract year round.

Two hotels emerge as the most accessible with both having excellent views of the Falls from their front facing rooms. On the Argentine side, the Sheraton International is a five star property with all the facilities you would expect of this chain. It is an easy 5 minute walk across the grassed parkland to the Visitors Center with many local craft shops behind which, the Jungle Explorer Company has its offices serving as the rallying & departure point for their superb variety of excursions. This is also the point of commencement for the upper & lower catwalks & trails.

In Puerto Iguazu some 18kms outside of the "Parque Nacional" on the Argentine side, a selection of good quality hotel accommodation is available, however staying here requires a transfer in & out, plus a daily entrance fee per person. The Park closes each evening before dark & re-opens in the morning, requiring those persons not staying at the Sheraton International to exit.

On the Brasilian side, the Tropical Das Catartas hotel stands out by virtue of its pink exterior paintwork & it sits high above the cliffs where the shorter walking trails commence.

Some 15 kms back from the Brasilian Falls are a selection of other hotels, but noting that each time you enter the National Park you pay a per person. The Park closes each evening & remains so overnight.

We recommend staying at either of these hotels in view of the Falls as here, you can feel their power, see & hear their continuous might & experience both dawn & dusk viewings from your room or the balconies, at your leisure.


Cataratas de Iguazu (Iguazu Falls) & Foz do Iguassú

To prevent confusion it is necessary to make a clear distinction between Cataratas de Iguazu (Iguazu Falls) which is the name of the Iguazu Falls as they are referred to by the Argentines in Spanish language & Foz do Iguassu as they are called in Portuguese, by Brasilians.

There are two distinctly different airports serving Catartas de Iguazu & Foz do Iguassu. Flights originating from Buenos Aires or travelling back from Cataratas de Iguazu (Iguazu Falls) into Argentina land & take off from Iguazu Airport (IGR) in airline three letter designator code, located on the Argentine side of the falls. Those originating in Brasil from cities such as Sao Paulo & Rio de Janeiro, or heading into Brasil from Foz do Iguassu, operate into & out of Iguassu Airport ( IGU) as designated in airline three letter code, located on the Brasil side of the falls.

Provided travellers have a valid Visa for Brasil, there is no reason that you cannot arrive into IGR on the Argentine side from Buenos Aires, & depart from IGU on the Brasil side, to (say ) Rio de Janeiro or v.v. All that is required is a transfer in between which is easily prearranged.

It is of great importance International visitors carry their Passport with them when leaving the respective National Parks on either side of the Falls, as well as when crossing the International borders between the two countries. This is because within the borders of Argentina & Brasil there are internal security check points where all vehicles passing through those points are required to stop for the purposes of checking individuals ID.



The Jesuit Missions of Argentina - Provincia Misiones

Perhaps best known for the mighty Iguazu Falls, Provincia Misiones in Argentina's north-eastern corner, holds treasures for those visitors who have a yearning to learn more about the historical background of this jungle covered landscape.

Between 1609 & 1768 in the bordering areas of present day Brasil, Paraguay & Argentina one of the most moving pieces of humankind's history in this region was founded - the so called "Provincia Jesuitica del Paraguay ".

The first European settlers were Jesuit monks who came here specifically to convert the indigenous natives to Christianity by exposing them to religious teachings & worship.

The region was inhabited by 30 tribes of indigenous peoples. By virtue of their grasping the Jesuit teachings, these indigenous natives reached such technological & social heights, that they provoked the rage & wrath of the Spanish & Portuguese masters & thus, ended up with the Spaniard expulsion of the Jesuit monks & the denigration of the amazing stone edifico's they had built as places of learning & worship.

The Missions that once stood resplendent have today, left archaeological riches, sculptures, engineering wonders, city charts, museums, cultural centres & the first university of its time as our link to those long past centuries.

Provincia Misiones has a great network of Jesuit Missions. Four stone monastery ruins & museums in San Ingancio & Posados allow the visitor to take an imaginary trip around the very roots of South Americas' first European settlers, to discover the socio-cultural make up that dazzled the world in the early 1600 through the mid -1700's.

A visit to San Ignacio - some three hours by road south of Iguazu Falls, then onto Posados, will bring the visitor face to face with the mysteries & architectural achievements of the Jesuits & is to be thorougholy recommended.



 
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