The first of the human migrations was that of Bantu tribesmen & nomadic hunter-gatherers. By the 13th century, trade between the Arabs & the Persians was in full swing & pirates lay in wait off the coast of what is now, Zanzibar, to prey on unsuspecting merchant vessels laden with spices, cloth, ivory & rhino horn. The Arab influence is marked & easily seen in the architecture in Zanzibar. It was from here that famous explorers such as Stanley & Livingstone, Burton & Speke, set out to discover the interior of darkest Africa.

During the 19th century the valued cargoes changed from merchandise goods to human slaves & the coastal town of Bagamoyo was accordingly christened ‘the place where I leave my heart’ - as Africans were forced to leave their homelands, chained & headed for the coffee plantations of Brasil & the vast estates of cotton in America.

In the 1880’s Germany controlled the region, but they ceded it to Great Britain after WWI where it remained as a British protectorate until 1946. In 1965, Tanganyika & Zanzibar gained independence from Great Britain & emerged united as Tanzania with Julius Nyerere as their first elected President. While he held to lofty goals for education & health care, his economic plans collapsed inwards, followed by a disassembling of the union between Kenya & Tanzania & the closure of the border between the neighbour countries, making access difficult.

War with Uganda followed but fortunately quickly passed. With it, a changing wind of policy towards the importance of tourism & protection of the natural environment & species was adopted. This became both a focus & a priority, with much improved infra-structures being put in place to cope with international guests, whilst a mindful plan addressing the interaction between humans & the environment was interwoven.

Some laws remain strict & for that reason, photographing of anything considered ‘military’ is forbidden & rigidly enforced. Do NOT photograph airports or aircraft & it is both important as well as highly respectful to ask permission before photographing local peoples. They are most likely to agree, but will ask for a coin, so be prepared & please don’t take offense.

Tanzania is not only home to the highest mountain in Africa – Mt Kilimanjaro ( 5895m or 19188 feet above sea level ) - but also has the longest & deepest lake - Lake Tanganyika. Because the lake is over 4000 feet deep it has many exotic species that only are to be found within. Moreover, the cold waters at the bottom of the lake do not circulate & mix with the warm upper waters.

The water at the bottom has existed there, undisturbed since the beginnings of time & it is pure speculation as to what treasures may lie in the depths, as little exploration has taken place. Lake Victoria, which is Africa’s largest lake, borders Tanzania to the west. Being 603300 sq km it is larger than the landmass of Kenya.

There are four main National Parks of international renown in Tanzania – twelve in total. The most well known of these is Serengeti National Park covering an area of 3420 sq km. In Maasai language it means ‘endless plains’ or ‘extended area’.

The Serengeti is both a major ecological hub & frantic matrix of Africa’s astonishing, varied, abundant wildlife, the likes of which are unequalled anywhere else on earth. It is located in high plateau country with altitudes ranging from 850 m to 1700 m & stretches to the border with Kenya in the north & to within 5 miles of Lake Victoria to the northwest. Serengeti National Park has an infinite variety of natural features & eco-systems : savannah grasslands, acacia forests, short & long grass plains, dense scrub woodland & a central range of mountains.

Over 500 species of birds & all of the major African animal species are to be found within the Park, but while wild animals are free to roam, they are never far away from what is natural habitat. By example, giraffe remain close to the acacia trees as this is their main foraging species, as do the herds of impala range close to the scrub bushland that provides them both dietary & refuge requirements. The territory of each of the great predator cats is likewise defined by their proximity to & ecological necessities of their prey.

It is unlikely that prior to 1890, any European had cast their eyes upon the Serengeti & it was not until the early 1900’s that the Maasai peoples began to use the kopjes in the Moru area for grazing land. Prior to that time, there had been a degree of hunting by the Ndorobo tribe & a little cultivating by the Ikoma, however it was not until 1913 when the first European hunting parties forged their way in search of lion, that the Serengeti started to emerge into a limelight of sorts.

In 1920 an American, L Simpson, drove his vehicle into Seronera & by 1925 hunters & visitors started to come in numbers, attracted in part by the now famous Black maned Lion. Killing of all manner of beasts became rampant & reckless but fortunately in 1929, this was recognized as being irresponsible so the then Government of the day commenced a series of initiatives that led to the Serengeti being declared a National Park, thereby protecting the environment & the animals for the generations to follow.

Here, herds of almost incomprehensible numbers of grazing animals are to be found – wildebeest, hartebeest, zebra, topi & gazelle. The former are able to be counted in their hundreds of thousands, with herds of buffalo, giraffe & the many species of predators ever present. The wildebeest herds or more correctly, white bearded gnu, are constantly moving. This ‘clown of the plains’ resembles a badly constructed cow, but really is a species of antelope that prefers open country to scrub land. The female will defend young to the bitter end with amazing courage & they are a formidable adversary. The male is larger than the female & at mating time, set up ‘territories’ in an effort to attract the cows. Wildebeest are under constant threat from lions, African wild dog packs and hyena, all who view them as a delicacy.

Burchell’s zebra, like the wildebeest, move in large numbers. They do however remain in family units within a herd of 5 to 15 animals & usually led by a wily stallion.

Most of the predators stalk their prey to within charging distance, relying on surprise & speed to bring down antelopes & four legged species usually who can outrun them over medium distances. Part of that cunning & stealth is an ability to display disinterest or laziness & to remain inconspicuous until it is time to attack at short distance. For their part, most of the grazing species seem to know when a predator is hunting & when it is not – seemingly showing no fear of lion or lioness provided the hunter retains a civilized distance & separation.

The Serengeti is renown for being home to large prides of lion, dominated by one or two large males accompanying many lionesses & their sired off spring. Lions spend approximately 22 of each 24 hours a day dozing or sleeping & often they are happened upon in the shade of scrub or trees, getting out of the heat of the sun.

Lions hunt mainly at dusk and night or in the hours pre-dawn when their eye sight gives them a superior advantage over the antelope species which make up the bulk of their diet. In lean times however, lions have been known to revert to catching creatures as small as mice & many a lion has come off second best in attempting to penetrate the ‘spear like’ quills of a cornered porcupine.

Male lions are basically lazy & leave the hunting to their lionesses, however once a kill is made, pride hierarchy dictates it is the largest male or males who feed first, then the senior ranked lioness & on down to cubs who often receive scant pickings of a cleaned carcass. The mortality rate in lion cubs attests to this, as only 1 in 5 lion cubs that are born will make it to full maturity, either dying of disease or weakened by hunger & unable to keep up with the pride & thereby killed by other predators. Young lion cubs are easily taken by hyena with whom, lions have an inner built hatred.

African hunting dogs pursue their prey in packs of up to 40 and wear the animal they are chasing, down. They use tactics that isolate an individual, then by fanning out & cutting off the corners & avenues for escape, force the prey to run further than they individually need to, waiting until exhaustion takes a hold, before attacking in numbers.

Cheetah on the other hand, rely purely on bursts of incredible speed & balance during their hunt. Having the ability to reach speeds of 130 kmph in a burst of up to 400m, they spend three quarters of the time at chase completely airborne, using their long & heavy tails as if they were a rudder. When they close in to stretch distance, the cheetah swats the legs of their prey causing the animal to fall in a flurry of legs & dust, then by going directly for the throat & blocking off the air supply, the cheetah suffocates their prey to death. To witness the amazing spectacle of a cheetah in full flight pursuing a meal, is to witness one of natures most awesome rituals.

Once they make a kill, cheetahs are not however capable of defending it & more often than not, they are seen doing all the hard work, only to find a following lion or scavenging hyena turns up within minutes to claim the meal, chasing the hapless cheetah off before it gets to feed.

Cheetah are beautiful animals, refined for speed & unable to retract their claws thus having ever ready running spikes on their feet. They are timid & unlike any of the other cat predators, will not attack humans, even when cornered.

The other fascinating predator of the Serengeti is the hyena. With a reputation as a scavenger & a coward, they are actually a complex pack hunter & natural deadly enemy of lions. The male will weigh up to 80 kg & they have the most powerful jaws of any of the predator species. Hyena are to the animal species what the vulture is to the birds - a garbage collector & cleaner up of dead carrion although hyena have been observed to specifically single out medium sized antelope such as wildebeest & chase them down in a dedicated hunt.

The birds of the short grassed plains are equally impressive. The crowned crane struts majestically, while the kori busted engages in its hunt for lizards & snakes with stealth. The ground hornbill is an ugly black brute with a huge red beak & it preys on reptiles & even small rodents, while the marabou stork is the noise maker, forever clacking its bill incessantly.

There is a fascinating interplay between animal & bird species to be found if one happens across a honey badger ( known also as a ‘ratel’ ) and a black throated honey guide. Early morning or late evening the honey badger will snuffle about seeking out anything it can find to eat. The black throated honey guide will lead a honey badger to a tree where a hive is located, then wait until the badger tears the hive open, before itself diving in to feed on the bees wax comb as soon as the dinner gong rings. This is one of Africa’s most fascinating examples of symbiosis.

On the open plains where long grasses flourish, pairs of large black & white ostrich are to be found. This elegant or more often referred to ‘awkward’ bird, is flightless. But it can run very fast with the ability to pivot and change direction with impunity, thereby thwarting most every attempt by predators, mainly lions, from their pursuit of any easy meal. The popular myth that ostriches hide with their head in the sand is just that, a myth.

Warthogs abound in the longer grassed flatlands. This animal is just about as ugly as the gnu, deriving its name from the male of the species who sport two huge warts on the jowls below the upper jaw line. It has fearsome tusks & lives in a burrow into which it backs down to gain access, so as to be able to defend itself & young from a pursuer. Warthogs delight in wallowing in mud & are noted for ‘radar antenna’ like tails that stick up vertically when they run.

The Seronera Valley has found fame in its leopard population. The leopards own the night & are adapted for night stalking, although they are equally at home hunting in daylight. They are considered the fiercest of all of the cat predators & with amazing strength, can lift an antelope of their same body weight vertically into trees so as to keep their kill from reach of lions & hyenas. Leopards hunt by guile & cunning.

Their favoured meal is either bushbuck, dik-dik, impala, monkeys or notably, baboon with whom they have an inbuilt dislike. However, a troop of baboon with two or three large males will defend itself vigorously & more often than not, back up a leopard, who have great respect for the baboons enormous incisor teeth & tenacity when cornered.

For most visitors, the grand attraction of the Serengeti is not necessarily being able to see vast numbers of antelope & herds of wildebeest & zebra, but most of all it is the large prides of lion. To be able to ‘feel’ the immense power of a male lions frightful roar is something beyond description & impossible to convey without experiencing first hand. To be within proximity of a male lion as it gives off the initial ‘grunts’ which then give way to a full throated ‘bellow’ where both ground & trees ( as well as the 4 x 4 vehicle you are likely in ) quite literally shake, is an awesome encounter.

To others, the ecological marvels remain as memories, as do the continued probing of our human species time lineage. No matter what it is you crave, for all there is the ever present thrill of adventure as the Serengeti is a place that leaves memories that never fade.

Of the other well known National Parks, Ngorongoro Crater Conservation Area holds a fascination from both a geological & ecological perspective. It is indeed an extinct volcanic crater, formed approximately four million years past & with an area of 8300 sq km, is the largest symmetrical crater on the planet.

There are many areas of great eco-diversity within the crater :

The middle of the crater is mainly grassland, shallow water courses, bare areas & ponds. On the east side of the plain there are two prominent hills – Silalei with a gravel pit excavated near the top & the more rounded Rumbe. A small stream flows between the hills & the swamp. The all year round presence of water ensures that both grazing animals & predators have ample to drink.

With in excess of 25000 large animals including the rare & endangered black rhino in solid numbers, Ngorongoro Crater is a festival of nature that is a ‘must see’ on any Tanzanian safari experience & it is truly one of the ‘natural wonders of the world’.

Tarangire National Park is Tanzania’s third largest, covering 2600 sq km, lying due south of Lake Manyara. It is some 1300 metres above sea level. Included within the boundaries are acacia woodland, savannah grassland & swamps supplied by waters from Tarangine river. Tarangire is generally considered to be a dry season park, with game migrating back & forth between Lake Manyara. However most all year it supports large herds of elephant, buffalo, eland, kudu, zebra, hartebeest & wildebeest. It also has an array of predators including lion, leopard, cheetah, hyena, honey badger, bat-eared fox & two species of jackal.

This too is an ornithologists haven, with over 260 species of birds recorded as making it their home. Bird watching is excellent all year round.

The symbol of Tarangire is the Baobab tree and hundreds of these monster specimens that grow to an excessive age, often reaching 1200 years, can be found. Elephants chew the bark & delight in the fruit & seed pods of the Baobab. They have been seen puncturing holes with their tusks in the tree trunks, whereupon birds make nests in the cavities.

There are three main regions within the Park.

Onward to Lake Manyara National Park located south of Serengeti, 130 km from Arusha. It covers 75 sq km & has five distinct ecosystems within the boundaries. Acacia woodland, marshland, scrubland, open grass plains & ground water forest. It is home to large herds of African buffalo, elephant & famous for its renowned tree climbing lions who supine in the elongated branches of acacia trees often 6 to 7 metres above the ground, sleeping, catching a breeze, surveying the vista & naturally keeping a sharp eye out for an easy meal.

This also is a territory for monitor lizards who prey on crocodile eggs, small amphibians & other reptiles. They keep close to the river & damp marsh areas, often growing in excess of a metre in length.

The Park is habitat for 380 recorded species of birds, however few birds are easily seen in the forest given the thick vegetation. Two species of guinea fowl are abundant along with silver cheeked hornbills, buff backed herons, kingfishers of which there are at least eight species, larks, plovers, egret, ibis, geese, ducks & flaming pink flamingos.

Of the raptors, the crested hawks feed on velvet monkeys & both fish eagle & bateleur eagles can be observed wheeling on thermals, seeking out their prey before swooping with arrow like precision at blinding speeds.

Lake Manyara National Park is truly a haven for both professional & amateur naturalists & lovers of the outdoors.

There is no denying that certain parts of Africa have a history of instability, but the mistake so many folks make is to view it as a nation, rather than a continent of 40 different countries. Tanzania has managed to avoid political upheaval, warfare & tribal conflict does not occur here. It is a safe country to travel in & visitors are treated with respect & kindness. It has an unrivaled variety of wildlife, vastly differing eco-systems & unparalleled raw beauty. There is a tranquility here, so whether you be on Ngorongoro crater rim, within the Serengeti, pursing the wonders of the Olduvai gorge or exchanging greetings with the Maasai herdsmen, you will sense an inner peace that does not exist in other places.

Whereas in Kenya, you are likely to find 20 safari vehicles clustered around the same sleeping lioness, in Tanzania you may find you are one of two, then again, you are more likely to have the sighting completely to yourself. Tanzania is one of the few places remaining in Africa that will truly exceed your expectations.